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Peruvian tortas and sandwiches at La Lucha Sangúcheria Criolla in Polanco, Ciudad de MéxicoLate Night

Eating Late in Ciudad de México

CDMX doesn't close. Here are the spots to hit when it's past midnight and you're still hungry — from Polanco Italian that runs to 1 AM to a Nápoles live music bar that's the last one standing.

After 10 PM, Insurgentes changes character. The microbuses keep running, taco carts glow under bare fluorescent bulbs, and somewhere on Álvaro Obregón a bar has hit its stride for the night. The stretch between Nápoles and Polanco doesn't empty. It recalibrates. The lunch-crowd energy cools into something slower. People here came out because they meant to, not because they had somewhere to be. CDMX has more places open past 10 than most cities know what to do with, and the good ones know exactly who they're waiting for.

Start in Polanco if you want dinner with your late night. 50 Friends at Av. Emilio Castelar 95 stays open until midnight Sunday through Wednesday, and until 1 AM Thursday through Saturday. Italian restaurant, proper kitchen, well over a thousand reviews at 4.7. The after-dinner crowd here tends to become the after-bar crowd without anyone leaving the table. Order the chocolate pizza if someone in your group raises an eyebrow about it. The room on a Thursday at midnight has the feel of people deciding to have one more glass, then having two.

Around the corner at Emilio Castelar 111, La Lucha Sangúcheria Criolla is the Polanco stop before the night really starts. Peruvian sandwiches: suckling pig and pork rind tortas served with Inca Kola and purple chicha. The confirmed closing time is 10 PM on Mondays, which makes this a pre-drinks stop rather than a post-bar rescue. Eat here first if you're starting in Polanco.

Peruvian tortas at La Lucha Sangúcheria Criolla, Polanco
Peruvian tortas at La Lucha Sangúcheria Criolla, Polanco

On weekends, if you're in Granada and need burgers before midnight, Chubbies at Lago Andromaco 17 closes at 11:30 PM on Fridays and Saturdays. Fast kitchen, smashed patties, the crowd that's fueling up between the first bar and wherever comes next. Weekdays they close at 9:30, so late-night options here are weekend-only.

The Insurgentes corridor runs later. Torito Sports Bar at Insurgentes Centro 1020 goes until 1 AM on Thursdays and Saturdays, 1:30 AM on Fridays. Stadium energy, loud, the kind of place that fills up with Benito Juárez regulars who work nearby and stay nearby. Micheladas are the reason people come. Tortilla soup is what gets ordered when it's past midnight and things get serious. Eight hundred-plus reviews at 4.8, which is not an accident.

When the rest of the city is calling it a night, LOS DE ARRIBA on Maricopa 10-10 in Nápoles is still open. Live music bar, Wednesday through Saturday, 8 PM to 1 AM. Son cubano and standup comedy nights, a drink menu called los tragos at prices that won't hurt the way Polanco does. Over a thousand reviews at 4.8, built by people who found this bar once and never stopped coming back. At midnight on a Saturday this place is packed and loud, which is exactly what the city sounds like when it's working right. When everything else has closed, Nápoles has this.

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