Two Italian Kitchens That Keep Mérida Eating Late

By 8 PM on a Wednesday, every table at Antica Roma is taken. Calle 23 A in Colonia La Florida is a residential street where most storefronts close by sundown. Not this one. The door stays open until 11:30, and by now the room fills with the smell of dough blistering somewhere behind the kitchen wall. A round of sangria arrives at a corner table. The server, whose name might be Mario (he comes up so often in reviews that he has become part of the place's identity), slides a plate of fettuccine across the table and vanishes before anyone can wave him down. The dining room hums with the particular noise of a place that has been full enough, long enough, that no one is performing. Everyone here looks like they have been here before. Antica Roma has over 2,000 reviews and a 4.7 rating. That makes it one of the highest-rated Italian restaurants in a city with more than 500 places to eat. Prices sit at MX$100-200 per person. Not cheap, not a splurge. The fettuccine arrives wide and glistening, coated in enough sauce that each strand holds weight, the edges catching low light from across the table. It is the kind of plate that tells you whether a kitchen knows what it is doing within the first forkful. Reviewers seem to agree. The fettuccine and the sangria are the two items that surface most, and both have the sort of following that fills tables on a Tuesday, not a Saturday. What has made Antica Roma a fixture in this neighborhood is the mood as much as the food. Reviewers reach for the word "romantic" with notable consistency. This is where people go for a date night or an anniversary dinner, the kind of evening where you want enough quiet to hear each other talk. The kitchen runs all seven days starting at 1 PM, so the lazy Sunday afternoon crowd looks different from the 9 PM Thursday regulars. Both would tell you it is their spot. At Calle 23 A No. 350, between calles 34 and 36, Antica Roma has built something that feels more like a neighborhood institution than a trending opening. People do not come here to post about it. They come here to eat. Across town in San Esteban, Due Torri runs a different kind of operation. About 680 reviews. A 4.6 rating. Smaller. More focused. On Calle 27 349-A, the menu leans toward what comes out of the oven, with lasagna and carpaccio drawing the most attention from reviewers. People mention the music and the overall feel of the house, the kind of comments that suggest they come here as much for the room as for the plate. Due Torri opens at 1:30 PM on weekdays, 1 PM Sundays, and stays open until 11. Where Antica Roma has made romance its calling card, Due Torri has bet on something quieter: the comfort of a neighborhood spot that knows what it does well and does not try to be anything else. Mérida's food scene has been shifting. Mezcal bars are opening every other month and fusion menus keep multiplying across the city. But these two Italian kitchens keep doing what they have done for years. The oven heats up. The tables fill. By 9 PM at Antica Roma, someone at the corner table has ordered a second round of sangria and the fettuccine is long gone. At Due Torri, the last lasagna of the evening goes out to regulars who stopped needing a menu a long time ago. You cannot buy that kind of loyalty. You earn it one plate at a time.